A dehumidifier contains heating and cooling coils and fins. Warm moist air, such as in a basement is drawn over these coils and fins by a fan that is in the dehumidifier. As the warm air is drawn over the coils the water vapor condenses and collects on the cooling coils and fins. The condensed water vapor then drips off of the cooling coils and fins, and into either a drain pan or a drip hose that flows into a sink, bucket or sump pump well.

During the process of condensing the water vapor, the water vapor normally produces enough heat to prevent the cooling coils from freezing up. However when there is a lack of humidity in the room or the temperature is too cool in the room, there is the potential for the dehumidifier to freeze up. The threat is exacerbated if the cooling coils are covered in dirt and dust.

To prevent the dehumidifier from freezing up there a few things you can do. First, if the humidity is low then turn off the dehumidifier. Alternatively you can cycle the dehumidifier off and on every few hours. This will allow the cooling coils to warm up and melt any ice that could be forming on them. Second, you can raise the temperature in the room to lower the risk of ice formation in the dehumidifier. Third, make sure the cooling coils and fins are free of dirt and dust. Finally, make sure the dehumidifier is up off the floor of the basement or room. Warm moist air rises and cool dry air falls. By raising the dehumidifier up off the floor the dehumidifier will work more efficiently and it will have less chance of freezing up.

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1. Save Energy with a Humidifier

Currently, there is only one way to dissipate heat without making any sound, and that’s cooling by submersion. This involves submerging the entire PC — everything except the hard drive — in mineral or vegetable oil.

The process is quite safe, since oil is non-conductive and as far as electronic components are concerned, having oil around is not very different than air. It does, however, comes with two draw back: first, it’s expensive (200-300 USD budget) and second, if you want to run your PC 24/7 you will need a radiator (oil can’t absorb an infinite amount of heat), inexpensive radiators requires fan, and that defeats the whole purpose of submersion…

Luckily, there is a simpler solution: Extension cords. If you simply place the PC at a far away place and connect all the IO devices to the PC via extension cords, then you won’t hear any noise, and that’s all that matters.

It is entirely possible to put your computer in the kitchen while having the keyboard, mouse, monitor, an optical drive and the power button in your work area. The process is fairly self-explanatory, so in the present guide we’ll simply list some of the factors you need to consider:

USB extensions: simple USB extensions cords cannot work over 16 feet, however it is possible to extend USB connections up to 150 feet using special extension kits. cost: 25 dollars for a basic 50 feet extension

Monitor extensions: it is possible to connect multiple extension cords up to 50 feet or more; single 50 feet extensions are available

PS/2 extensions: connecting multiple extension cords will work up to 30 feet possibly more; while a single 50 feet extension cords will work just fine without any type of boosting

Audio / speaker extension: will work up to 50 feet possibly more without perceivable degradation in sound quality

power button / reset buttons: there are no extension cords for these, however since they do not transmit any kind of complex signal, it is entirely possible to make your own with telephone wires. tested up to 30 feet.
By lee100

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